LC's Crochet Lab

Tag: crochet tutorial

  • Working in Back and Front Loops – Left Handed

    Working in Back and Front Loops – Left Handed

    Every stitch so far we’ve worked under both loops of the stitch we’re working into. For the most part, this is how crochet stitches are worked. Sometimes, however, you’ll be asked to work into only one of these loops, noted as BLO (back loop only) or FLO (front loop only).

    If you’re right-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    Here’s an image with the front and back loops of a stitch annotated and held as you’d be starting to work across the row:

    Which loop is the “back” versus the “front” depends on which loop is closest to you. The front loop is the closest loop, and the back loop is the furthest loop. If your stitches are facing the other way (for example, in continuous rounds), the front and back loops look like this:

    You can see that the front and back loops are in the same location, but the stitch itself is flipped.

    This tutorial will use single crochets as an example stitch.

    Working in Back Loops

    The shorthand for working in the back loops in a written pattern is BLO.

    The chart symbol for working in the back loops is

    This symbol will be at the bottom of the stitch to be worked in the back loops of the previous row.

    To work into just the back loop, insert your hook through the middle of the top of the stitch.

    You’ll push through the stitch so that the only part overlapping your hook is that one piece of yarn- the back loop

    You can now complete your stitch as normal!

    Working in Front Loops

    The shorthand for working in the front loops in a written pattern is FLO.

    The chart symbol for working in the front loops is

    This symbol will be at the bottom of the stitch to be worked in the front loops of the previous row.

    To work into just the front loop, your hook will start in the same place as it would when you work a stitch normally.

    Instead of going under both loops, tilt your hook upwards to catch just that first loop on your hook and go between the loops.

    Now you can complete your stitch as normal!

    Final notes

    These are the last techniques used in the second cinch sack pattern! There are some tips or replacements in that pattern if you’re struggling with the cluster stitches, but other than that you now know everything you need to make it! I’ll see you in the next post for the finale 🙂

    You can find the patterns here:
    Written and chart download
    Right Handed Video
    Left Handed Video

    Previous: Puff Stitches – Left Handed

    Next: Crochetsics Basics Finale!

  • Working in Back and Front Loops – Right Handed

    Working in Back and Front Loops – Right Handed

    Every stitch so far we’ve worked under both loops of the stitch we’re working into. For the most part, this is how crochet stitches are worked. Sometimes, however, you’ll be asked to work into only one of these loops, noted as BLO (back loop only) or FLO (front loop only).

    If you’re left-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    Here’s an image with the front and back loops of a stitch annotated and held as you’d be starting to work across the row:

    Which loop is the “back” versus the “front” depends on which loop is closest to you. The front loop is the closest loop, and the back loop is the furthest loop. If your stitches are facing the other way (for example, in continuous rounds), the front and back loops look like this:

    You can see that the front and back loops are in the same location, but the stitch itself is flipped.

    This tutorial will use single crochets as an example stitch.

    Working in Back Loops

    The shorthand for working in the back loops in a written pattern is BLO.

    The chart symbol for working in the back loops is

    This symbol will be at the bottom of the stitch to be worked in the back loops of the previous row.

    To work into just the back loop, insert your hook through the middle of the top of the stitch.

    You’ll push through the stitch so that the only part overlapping your hook is that one piece of yarn- the back loop

    You can now complete your stitch as normal!

    Working in Front Loops

    The shorthand for working in the front loops in a written pattern is FLO.

    The chart symbol for working in the front loops is

    This symbol will be at the bottom of the stitch to be worked in the front loops of the previous row.

    To work into just the front loop, your hook will start in the same place as it would when you work a stitch normally.

    Instead of going under both loops, tilt your hook upwards to catch just that first loop on your hook and go between the loops.

    Now you can complete your stitch as normal!

    Final notes

    These are the last techniques used in the second cinch sack pattern! There are some tips or replacements in that pattern if you’re struggling with the cluster stitches, but other than that you now know everything you need to make it! I’ll see you in the next post for the finale 🙂

    You can find the patterns here:
    Written and chart download
    Right Handed Video
    Left Handed Video

    Previous: Puff Stitches – Right Handed

    Next: Crochetsics Basics Finale!

  • Puff Stitches – Left Handed

    Puff Stitches – Left Handed

    In this post, we’ll cover how to do the puff stitch. If you’ve ever seen a textured crochet afghan, this was likely one of the stitches used to make those little bumps.

    This isn’t the only texture creating stitch like this- there’s also the bobble and popcorn stitch- but if you’re following the Crochetsics Basics course, this is the one we use in the second cinch sack.

    If you’re right-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    Puff stitch

    Puff stitches are a number of incomplete half double crochets, usually 3 to 5 from what I’ve seen. This example will use 3 half double crochets.

    Here’s what the puff stitch looks like:

    Stitch Instructions

    The shorthand for puff stitches in a written pattern is puff.

    The chart symbol for puff stitches is

    We’ll start by yarning over and inserting our hook into the next stitch to pull up a loop.

    You’ll now have three loops on your hook. We’ll now repeat that process two more times. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch and pull up a loop

    You’ll now have five loops on your hook. One more time: yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch and pull up a loop

    You should now have seven loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull that loop through all the loops on your hook.

    You’ve completed a puff stitch!

    This stitch is also worked from the wrong side of your work, meaning that the front of the puff stitch is on the side opposite you when you stitch it. The side opposite you is the side that protrudes more from the crocheted fabric.

    Below you can see a comparison between the front and back of some puff stitches.

    Tips/common issues

    The biggest issue with these stitches is being able to keep hold of your final loop while pulling it through every other stitch on your hook. It truly does just take practice and time, and making sure your tension isn’t so tight you can’t pull your hook through, or so loose you lose the loop you’re trying to pull through.

    If you’re following along with the Crochetsics course and making the projects that go along with it, there is an alternative in the second pattern if you find yourself struggling with this stitch and want an alternative.

    Previous: Increasing and Decreasing – Left Handed

    Next: Working in Front and Back Loops – Left Handed

  • Puff Stitches – Right Handed

    Puff Stitches – Right Handed

    In this post, we’ll cover how to do the puff stitch. If you’ve ever seen a textured crochet afghan, this was likely one of the stitches used to make those little bumps.

    This isn’t the only texture creating stitch like this- there’s also the bobble and popcorn stitch- but if you’re following the Crochetsics Basics course, this is the one we use in the second cinch sack.

    If you’re left-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    Puff stitch

    Puff stitches are a number of incomplete half double crochets, usually 3 to 5 from what I’ve seen. This example will use 3 half double crochets.

    Here’s what the puff stitch looks like:

    Stitch Instructions

    The shorthand for puff stitches in a written pattern is puff.

    The chart symbol for puff stitches is

    We’ll start by yarning over and inserting our hook into the next stitch to pull up a loop.

    You’ll now have three loops on your hook. We’ll now repeat that process two more times. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch and pull up a loop

    You’ll now have five loops on your hook. One more time: yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch and pull up a loop

    You should now have seven loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull that loop through all the loops on your hook.

    You’ve completed a puff stitch!

    This stitch is also worked from the wrong side of your work, meaning that the front of the puff stitch is on the side opposite you when you stitch it. The side opposite you is the side that protrudes more from the crocheted fabric.

    Below you can see a comparison between the front and back of some puff stitches.

    Tips/common issues

    The biggest issue with these stitches is being able to keep hold of your final loop while pulling it through every other stitch on your hook. It truly does just take practice and time, and making sure your tension isn’t so tight you can’t pull your hook through, or so loose you lose the loop you’re trying to pull through.

    If you’re following along with the Crochetsics course and making the projects that go along with it, there is an alternative in the second pattern if you find yourself struggling with this stitch and want an alternative.

    Previous: Increasing and Decreasing – Right Handed

    Next: Working in Front and Back Loops – Right Handed

  • Increasing and Decreasing – Left Handed

    Increasing and Decreasing – Left Handed

    Here we’ll cover how to increase and decrease in crochet. Increasing is relatively simple, just putting two stitches in the same stitch, while decreasing is a bit more difficult since you leave a stitch unfinished, start a stitch in the next stitch, then finish the two stitches at the same time. We’ll cover each of these in more detail below.

    If you’re right-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    Increasing

    Increasing is the same regardless of stitch- you’ll just place another stitch in the same stitch you just worked into. The example below uses single crochets, but the same thing works for half double, double, or treble crochets.

    Single Crochet Increase

    The shorthand for a single crochet increase in a written pattern is sc inc.

    The chart symbol for single crochet increases is

    First, make a single crochet stitch in the next stitch

    Now, insert your hook into the stitch you just worked into.

    Do a single crochet into this stitch.

    In the image above you can see that there are now two stitches in the same gap!

    Some patterns might require you to increase more than this, which may be notated as sc 3 inc, or something similar.

    Double Crochet Increase

    The shorthand for a double crochet increase in a written pattern is dc inc.

    The chart symbol for double crochet increases is

    A double crochet increase works the exact same way as a single crochet increase. Do a double crochet into the next stitch.

    Now, yarn over and insert your hook back into the stitch you just worked into.

    Complete a double crochet in this stitch.

    It’s a little easier here to see the two double crochets in the same stitch than two single crochets.

    Decreasing

    Decreases are a little trickier, so we’ll go over a single and double crochet decrease as examples. All decrease types work mostly the same!

    Single crochet decrease

    The shorthand for a single crochet decrease in a written pattern is sc dec or sc2tog.

    The chart symbol for single crochet decreases is

    To do a single crochet decrease, insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop.

    You aren’t going to finish your stitch here. Insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up another loop.

    Now you should have three loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull that loop through all three loops on your hook.

    It’s a little difficult to see, but there are two v’s for the front of each single crochet, but they meet under a single v at the top of the stitch. If you look at what the double crochet decrease looks like, it’s a bit clearer to see the two stitches coming under the single v at the top.

    Double crochet decrease

    The shorthand for a double crochet decrease in a written pattern is dc dec or dc2tog.

    The chart symbol for double crochet decreases is

    Other stitch decreases work similarly- you’ll work all of a stitch except for the final loop, then work another stitch in the next stitch. You’ll do the last yarn over and pull through for both of these stitches at the same time. We’ll see an example of this with double crochet. Start by yarning over, inserting your hook in the next stitch, and pulling up a loop.

    Now, yarn over, and pull through two loops. You’ll have two loops left on your hook.

    If we were to yarn over and pull through now, we’d have completed a double crochet. Since we want to decrease, we’ll leave these loops on our hook, and start another double crochet. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, and pull up a loop. You’ll have 4 loops on your hook at this point

    Now, yarn over and pull through the first two loops on your hook.

    You’ll have 3 loops on your hook at this point, with two unfinished double crochets. Yarn over, and pull through all three loops.

    You’ve finished a double crochet decrease!

    Generally, any decrease is going to be a process of doing all but the final yarn over of a stitch, then starting the next stitch, and using the final yarn over of that one to complete both stitches.

    >2 stitch decreases

    You can also decrease more than one stitch if it calls for it- it might be written something like 3 sc dec, or sc3tog, which means you’re going to have three incomplete single crochets on your hook before doing that last yarn over and pull through. This turns 3 stitches into 1.

    Next up is the puff stitch which is like a combination of increasing and decreasing to create texture in a project.

    Previous: Working in Rounds – Left Handed

    Next: Puff Stitch – Left Handed

  • Increasing and Decreasing – Right Handed

    Increasing and Decreasing – Right Handed

    Here we’ll cover how to increase and decrease in crochet. Increasing is relatively simple, just putting two stitches in the same stitch, while decreasing is a bit more difficult since you leave a stitch unfinished, start a stitch in the next stitch, then finish the two stitches at the same time. We’ll cover each of these in more detail below.

    If you’re left-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    Increasing

    Increasing is the same regardless of stitch- you’ll just place another stitch in the same stitch you just worked into. The example below uses single crochets, but the same thing works for half double, double, or treble crochets.

    Single Crochet Increase

    The shorthand for a single crochet increase in a written pattern is sc inc.

    The chart symbol for single crochet increases is

    First, make a single crochet stitch in the next stitch

    Now, insert your hook into the stitch you just worked into.

    Do a single crochet into this stitch.

    In the image above you can see that there are now two stitches in the same gap!

    Some patterns might require you to increase more than this, which may be notated as sc 3 inc, or something similar.

    Double Crochet Increase

    The shorthand for a double crochet increase in a written pattern is dc inc.

    The chart symbol for double crochet increases is

    A double crochet increase works the exact same way as a single crochet increase. Do a double crochet into the next stitch.

    Now, yarn over and insert your hook back into the stitch you just worked into.

    Complete a double crochet in this stitch.

    It’s a little easier here to see the two double crochets in the same stitch than two single crochets.

    Decreasing

    Decreases are a little trickier, so we’ll go over a single and double crochet decrease as examples. All decrease types work mostly the same!

    Single crochet decrease

    The shorthand for a single crochet decrease in a written pattern is sc dec or sc2tog.

    The chart symbol for single crochet decreases is

    To do a single crochet decrease, insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop.

    You aren’t going to finish your stitch here. Insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up another loop.

    Now you should have three loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull that loop through all three loops on your hook.

    It’s a little difficult to see, but there are two v’s for the front of each single crochet, but they meet under a single v at the top of the stitch. If you look at what the double crochet decrease looks like, it’s a bit clearer to see the two stitches coming under the single v at the top.

    Double crochet decrease

    The shorthand for a double crochet decrease in a written pattern is dc dec or dc2tog.

    The chart symbol for double crochet decreases is

    Other stitch decreases work similarly- you’ll work all of a stitch except for the final loop, then work another stitch in the next stitch. You’ll do the last yarn over and pull through for both of these stitches at the same time. We’ll see an example of this with double crochet. Start by yarning over, inserting your hook in the next stitch, and pulling up a loop.

    Now, yarn over, and pull through two loops. You’ll have two loops left on your hook.

    If we were to yarn over and pull through now, we’d have completed a double crochet. Since we want to decrease, we’ll leave these loops on our hook, and start another double crochet. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, and pull up a loop. You’ll have 4 loops on your hook at this point

    Now, yarn over and pull through the first two loops on your hook.

    You’ll have 3 loops on your hook at this point, with two unfinished double crochets. Yarn over, and pull through all three loops.

    You’ve finished a double crochet decrease!

    Generally, any decrease is going to be a process of doing all but the final yarn over of a stitch, then starting the next stitch, and using the final yarn over of that one to complete both stitches.

    >2 stitch decreases

    You can also decrease more than one stitch if it calls for it- it might be written something like 3 sc dec, or sc3tog, which means you’re going to have three incomplete single crochets on your hook before doing that last yarn over and pull through. This turns 3 stitches into 1.

    Next up is the puff stitch which is like a combination of increasing and decreasing to create texture in a project.

    Previous: Working in Rounds – Right Handed

    Next: Puff Stitch – Right Handed

  • Working in Rounds – Left Handed

    Working in Rounds – Left Handed

    In the Crochetsics Basics course so far we’ve been working in rows, but many projects (including the second cinch sack) are worked in rounds. There are a few different ways to make your first round, as well as a few ways to work in rounds once you’ve started. For the sake of this course, we’ll only cover what’s needed for the second cinch sack pattern, just to keep things simple.

    If you’re right-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    Starting rounds

    One way to start your rounds is by making a chain and working into the first chain. This is likely the easiest and most intuitive for beginners as well.

    Start by chaining the length of your turning chain for your stitch plus one. For double crochet, our turning chain is three, so we’ll chain four.

    Now, we’ll work as many stitches as we need into the first chain. Usually you’re working enough stitches into this starting chain that you may need to rotate your work and work into the other side of the chain:

    Working rounds

    So you’ve got your first round done and now need to start the second. Every pattern is different, but there’s two main methods: continuous or concentric rounds. Here, we’ll cover continuous rounds and concentric turned rounds (often just called turned rounds).

    Continuous rounds

    Continuous rounds create a spiral look. From our double crochet example, the way we would continue would be to stitch directly into our first stitch, which you can see below:

    With continuous rounds, there’s no clear start and end to your round, so stitch markers are a must. I tend to mark the final stitch of a round with my markers.

    This also creates a spiral look, which is a bit easier to see in the bottom of the cinch sack below, worked in single crochet:

    Concentric turned rounds

    Concentric rounds work much like rows in that there’s always a turning chain to get back up to height. They also use a slip stitch to connect the start and end of rounds.

    When you get to the end of your round while working in turned rounds, you’ll slip stitch to the first stitch of the round to close it.

    Then, you’ll make your turning chain just like you would when working in rows. For this double crochet example, we’d chain 3 and turn our work since we’re working in turned rounds.

    You’re then going to work back along your circle, the same as you would for working in rows. The first stitch of the round is marked in the image below.

    Again, there are a few other ways to start or work in rounds with crochet, but those are the ways we need for the second cinch sack. If you’re following a pattern, it should tell you the way to start and the way to work your rounds (i.e. continuous spiral rounds).

    Next up is increasing and decreasing, which are essential when working in rounds!

    Previous: Pattern Reading

    Next: Increasing and Decreasing – Left Handed

  • Working in Rounds – Right Handed

    Working in Rounds – Right Handed

    In the Crochetsics Basics course so far we’ve been working in rows, but many projects (including the second cinch sack) are worked in rounds. There are a few different ways to make your first round, as well as a few ways to work in rounds once you’ve started. For the sake of this course, we’ll only cover what’s needed for the second cinch sack pattern, just to keep things simple.

    If you’re left-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    Starting rounds

    One way to start your rounds is by making a chain and working into the first chain. This is likely the easiest and most intuitive for beginners as well.

    Start by chaining the length of your turning chain for your stitch plus one. For double crochet, our turning chain is three, so we’ll chain four.

    Now, we’ll work as many stitches as we need into the first chain. Usually you’re working enough stitches into this starting chain that you may need to rotate your work and work into the other side of the chain:

    Working rounds

    So you’ve got your first round done and now need to start the second. Every pattern is different, but there’s two main methods: continuous or concentric rounds. Here, we’ll cover continuous rounds and concentric turned rounds (often just called turned rounds).

    Continuous rounds

    Continuous rounds create a spiral look. From our double crochet example, the way we would continue would be to stitch directly into our first stitch, which you can see below:

    With continuous rounds, there’s no clear start and end to your round, so stitch markers are a must. I tend to mark the final stitch of a round with my markers.

    This also creates a spiral look, which is a bit easier to see in the bottom of the cinch sack below, worked in single crochet:

    Concentric turned rounds

    Concentric rounds work much like rows in that there’s always a turning chain to get back up to height. They also use a slip stitch to connect the start and end of rounds.

    When you get to the end of your round while working in turned rounds, you’ll slip stitch to the first stitch of the round to close it.

    Then, you’ll make your turning chain just like you would when working in rows. For this double crochet example, we’d chain 3 and turn our work since we’re working in turned rounds.

    You’re then going to work back along your circle, the same as you would for working in rows. The first stitch of the round is marked in the image below.

    Again, there are a few other ways to start or work in rounds with crochet, but those are the ways we need for the second cinch sack. If you’re following a pattern, it should tell you the way to start and the way to work your rounds (i.e. continuous spiral rounds).

    Next up is increasing and decreasing, which are essential when working in rounds!

    Previous: Pattern Reading

    Next: Increasing and Decreasing – Right Handed

  • Slip Stitch – Left Handed

    Slip Stitch – Left Handed

    In this post, we’ll cover how to do the slip stitch in crochet. If you’re right-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    This stitch is easiest to learn in the middle of a row of existing stitches, so that’s how this tutorial will be presented.

    Here’s what the slip stitch looks like:

    Stitch instructions

    The shorthand for slip stitches in a written pattern is sl st.

    The chart symbol for slip stitches is

    To do a slip stitch, you’ll start the same way as a single crochet: inserting your hook into the next stitch and yarning over.

    You’re going to take that loop and pull it through the stitch AND through the loop on your hook

    This is not a stitch that adds height- you’re not going to be working into these stitches very often. They’re often used to connect rounds or at the edge of a piece to vary height.

    That’s the last stitch for the first half of the Crochetsics course as well, so if you’re following along, next post is going to be a little bit on crochet terminology and pattern reading, as well as our first pattern!

    Previous: Treble Crochets – Left Handed

    Next: Pattern Reading

  • Slip Stitch – Right Handed

    Slip Stitch – Right Handed

    In this post, we’ll cover how to do the slip stitch in crochet. If you’re left-handed, check that tutorial out here, or if you prefer a video tutorial check that out here.

    This stitch is easiest to learn in the middle of a row of existing stitches, so that’s how this tutorial will be presented.

    Here’s what the slip stitch looks like:

    Stitch instructions

    The shorthand for slip stitches in a written pattern is sl st.

    The chart symbol for slip stitches is

    To do a slip stitch, you’ll start the same way as a single crochet: inserting your hook into the next stitch and yarning over.

    You’re going to take that loop and pull it through the stitch AND through the loop on your hook

    This is not a stitch that adds height- you’re not going to be working into these stitches very often. They’re often used to connect rounds or at the edge of a piece to vary height.

    That’s the last stitch for the first half of the Crochetsics course as well, so if you’re following along, next post is going to be a little bit on crochet terminology and pattern reading, as well as our first pattern!

    Previous: Treble Crochets – Right Handed

    Next: Pattern Reading